Monday, February 9, 2009

It is in the Stars

It is somewhat debated, but back in the remote recesses of time the idea of Gem Power was first cultivated in the societies of ancient India and Babylonia. Both of these ancient peoples elevated the idea and ascribed many magical powers and virtues to gemstones. In these times for these peoples this was no mean, primitive superstition, but a science, a complex and sophisticated system of beliefs. In the ancient cultures, jewelers were almost never the first consultants in matters of gem collection/purchases. The royal houses and the landed rich (really the only ones who could afford to trade in gems) would almost always consult an astrologer. Usually these sages were on retainer to the best houses of the land. Once their advice was heeded, then one visited a jeweler for assistance with these recommendations based off the buyer's horoscope.

In India, wise sages used gems as a practical means of attunement to life forces and spiritual cleansing. Wearing these stones would align the wearer with the life energies and the currents the gems exerted. From these practices evolved the nine-gem Vedic system of birthstone matching. This system is still in use in many Eastern cultures as The Vedas are the foundations of Hinduism. To the astrologers of ancient Babylonia (Chaldean's they were called), gemstones were imbued with powerful metaphysical properties. In both the Indian and Babylonian systems the ruling planets' link to their related stones laid the groundwork for our Western birth month, sign and stone traditions.

From the ancient Eastern Cultures this birthstone tradition found its way into what would become the foundations of western religious ideology through Judeo-Christian teachings. The famous Breastplate of Aaron, the brother of Moses and the first priest of The Arc Of The Covenant, was constructed at Moses' command to specifications given him by God. Over the last 3500 years Both Jewish and Christian theologians have interpreted the significance of the 12 gems used in the breastplate's construction. Josephus, the great Jewish historian, described the protective armor in detail and this description is believed to be the real origin of our modern birthstone record. It was not until the late 1500's that religious scholars and "enlightened" scientist began to attack the idea of gems as magical repositories of alchemical energies. The jewelry establishment aided by the more superstitious underpinnings of society in this era was able to hold off the naysayers for a long while. But by 1600 this Western Zodiacal tradition started to lose ground in the battle and by 1700 most people scoffed at the idea.

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Birthstones: Rockin Through The Ages

For more than 45 centuries (3000 BC up to the 1500s), the acquisition of gems for their aesthetic qualities was a minor consideration. Though gem beauty is the dominant reason for the purchases in today's world, in the ancient world, gems were not luxuries at all. They were considered necessary to daily life.
The idea that gems contain special properties and powers is a concept that has survived for countless thousands of years, and lives on our modern birthstone charts. It is in fact the oldest of jewelry traditions to link a birth date to a particular stone and to accept the gem's ability to influence the wearer's life.

The awe that the ancients felt for the gems they wore is a race memory passed down to we moderns, and is a great deal of what our desire for precious jewelry is all about. The Birthstone tradition links our time to a time when man was more at peace with nature and more in tune with the world around him. To better understand the properties associated with birthstone (as well as other power gems) we must look back in gemological history and become aware of the mystique that began these traditions. Hopefully a better understanding of this history can heighten one's desire for acquiring certain types of jewelry.

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Topaz: Gem of the Setting Sun

The mystery and allure of topaz goes back thousands of years. The Egyptians, for instance, believed the gem was colored with the golden glow of the mighty sun god Ra, which protected the wearer from harm. Meanwhile, the Romans associated topaz with Jupiter, the god of the sun. The name topaz is thought to come from the Greek word "topazos" meaning "to shine" which also implies "fire."
Topaz also holds the distinction of being the gemstone thought to have the widest range of curative powers. Legend has it that the gem can dispel enchantment and improve the eyesight. The ancient Greeks believed that it had the power to increase strength and make its wearer invisible in times of emergency. Topaz is also said to change color in the presence of poisoned food or drink. Throughout history, different cultures have believed that the stone could cure insomnia, asthma and hemorrhages; bring friendship; promote patience and a pleasant disposition; and ensure fidelity. To the ancients, it was also a symbol of love and affection and was even thought to ward off sudden death.
Blue topaz is the recommended jewelry gift for couples celebrating their fourth anniversary; Imperial topaz (sherry red, deep pink or reddish-orange) for their 23rd. The "Imperial" moniker came about following the discovery of pink topaz in Russia during the 19th century. The gem was so coveted, its ownership was restricted to the Czar, his family, and to those who received it as a royal gift.
Although topaz is most often associated with its golden yellow hues, it also occurs colorless, as well as orange-yellow, red, honey-brown, light green, blue and pink. Imperial shades are the rarest and therefore, the most valuable.
Most brownish topaz is heated to produce a permanent pink color. Blue topaz is extremely popular today due to its clarity, durability, availability and durability; it has been in great demand as a less costly substitute to aquamarine. However, topaz is rarely found in blue shades in nature. This color is most often created through a combination of heat-treatment and irradiation.
In 1998, a new type of enhanced topaz made its appearance: the surface-enhanced topaz. These stones have colors that have range from blue to greenish-blue or emerald green.
Topaz is mined mainly in Brazil, Mexico, Nigeria, Sri Lanka, Pakistan and China. With a ranking of "8" on the Mohs scale of hardness, it is a very hard stone durable enough for everyday wear. However, care should be taken to protect it from sharp blows.
Perhaps the most famous topaz is a giant specimen set in the Portuguese Crown, the Braganza, which was first thought to be a diamond. There is also a beautiful topaz set in the Green Vault in Dresden, Germany, one of the world's important gem collections.

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Monday, February 2, 2009

Tanzanite: The Jewel of East Africa

Although tanzanite is a relative newcomer to the gemstone market, it has made its mark on the jewelry world in a hurry. In fact, no recent gemstone discovery has had more of an impact.
This rare, exotic gem was first discovered by Portuguese prospector Manuel d'Souza in the Merelani Hills of Tanzania in 1967, in the shadow of majestic Mount Kilimanjaro. This breathtaking location is the only known mining site on earth for tanzanite. The stone was named after its country of origin by Tiffany & Co. in New York. The world-renowned jeweler first introduced tanzanite to the market in 1969 and began to aggressively market it to the public in the 1980s.
Tanzanite, a variety of the mineral zoisite, occurs in a wide range of shapes, sizes and colors. Rarely pure blue, the gem almost always displays signature overtones of purple. In smaller sizes, it tends toward lighter tones, with lavender the most common. In larger sizes, the gem typically displays deeper, richer blues and purples. It is this mesmerizing saturation of color that has made tanzanite so sought after. In 1998 and 1999, it was proclaimed the number one colored stone sold worldwide. Although demand for this beautiful gem continues to grow, supply shortages in recent years have hampered production and caused price fluctuations.
In its natural form, tanzanite is typically brown with reddish, orange, yellow or bronze hues. Heat treatment releases the spectacular violet-blue colors the stone is known for.
According to legend, the affect of heat on tanzanite was first discovered when some brown zoisite crystals lying on the ground among other rocks were caught in a fire started by lightning that swept through the grass-covered Merelani Hills. Masai cattle herders in the area noticed the beautiful blue color of the crystals and picked them up, becoming the first tanzanite collectors.
The finest quality tanzanite is usually deep blue or violet, with few, if any, inclusions visible under magnification. Such stones are also exceptionally well-cut and polished. But color is the most important factor to consider when buying tanzanite.
The gem is usually available in four quality grades: "AAA," "A," "B" and "C." "AAA" quality features the richest color and is very rare and limited. "A" quality, generally considered the highest grade available in most jewelry stores, exhibits slightly less intense color and has also become limited. "B" and "C" qualities, which exhibit increasingly lighter hues of color, are still very abundant.
With a ranking of 6.5 out of 10 on the Mohs scale, tanzanite is similar in hardness to an emerald but softer than a diamond. Although it is safe to wear tanzanite jewelry on a daily basis, avoid impacts that could crack, chip or shatter the stone. Clean your tanzanite with warm, soapy water and a soft bristle brush. Also, avoid ultrasonic or steam cleaning, because the high temperatures could damage the stone. Most nicks and scratches can be removed through polishing.
Tanzanite is the recommended gem for couples celebrating their 24th wedding anniversary. A noted 122.7-carat faceted stone is on display at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C.

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